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I spent an hour strolling around the mad wonderland of funeral art - stark pyramids, deco slabs of black granite, miniature Gothic cathedrals, and mournful marble everywhere.
After a while it became weirdly cheerful.
Perhaps it was the American tourists who had two topics of conversation: "Where's Evita's tomb?", and "Look at the poor kitties, do you think someone feeds them?".
Somebody was definitely feeding them yesterday - every grubby cat I saw (not already sleeping in the sun) was filling up on kibble.
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