Thursday, September 25, 2008

La Grande Randonnée - Day 1 - Bordeaux and the Getting There

2008-09-16 Bordeaux
as threatened last blog, we did have to resort to Plan B - flying to Bordeaux. Fortunately Kensington-Victoria-Gatwick-Bordeaux Airport-Bordeaux St Jean was ridiculously easy. Unusually for BA, the steward was funny, friendly, and the food was edible - must have been an off day. The piccolo of lunchtime champagne on the flight was almost good enough to ease the sting of the fully flexible airfare (ouch).
Bordeaux knocks Bath  off its perch for beauty and charm, not to mention much better food. We also score another tick on the World Heritage list.
We arrived in Bordeaux about 17:00, and enjoyed a couple of hours strolling around the 18th century town before dark. We had dinner at a little cafe across from the hotel. As it was our first night in France we opted for the Perigordais specialities of foie gras and magret de canard. Little did we know how tired we would be of anything made from duck or goose by the end of the week.
We stayed at the Amarys Royal St Jean, which was right across from the train station, very pleasant and good value.
The next morning we discovered that SNCF does not approve of credit cards without chips, and punishes foreigners by making them queue to buy train tickets from a real person. Fortunately we decided to buy train tickets before lunch rather than after, so this was not in fact a disaster. Next stop - Bergerac.

Friday, September 12, 2008

an incendiary week

I don't know what is wrong with London this week. Despite my doom-laden prediction in the last blog, the Whole Foods Market did not burn down (though there was a distinct smell of smoke).
However London's Burning may be more than just a song by the Clash.
This week the London Stock Exchange fell over, there was a tram and bus crash in Croydon, all the bus drivers are out on strike, the Tube upgrade blew out by a couple more billion pounds, yet another budget travel company went under and stranded 200,000 people, and yesterday afternoon, the Channel Tunnel caught fire! It's not looking good for the weekend.
I personally blame the switching on of the Large Hadron Collider in CERN. It has obviously created a wave of malfunctioning reality to ripple across Europe.
None of this would normally bother me, except...we are supposed to be catching Eurostar to Paris on Tuesday to go on holiday.
Never fear, Plan B (refundable air tickets to Bordeaux) is already booked.

Monday, September 01, 2008

Hotel troubles in Montreal (C23)


It's country #23 - Canada. By the rules of the country game, describing Montreal as part of Canada may be challenged. Many would vigorously defend the right of Quebec to be distinct from Canada. This includes many Quebecois who will be shuddering at my lack of accents (it's just too hard to find them on an English keyboard).
I spent this week at a putative 5-star hotel that shall be nameless to protect the staff. Now I'm sure on a good week this well-known and respected Montreal landmark would live up to expectations and deliver a fine and satisfying service. Unfortunately they seem somehow to have misstepped in the Canadian industrial relations system.
When I arrived, all seemed calm except for a polite notice that suggested some union action might occur. Certainly things seemed normal enough that evening - the bar and restaurants were open, all the staff seemed to be there. Over the next 3 days things grew steadily odder. Staff disappeared, my room was no longer cleaned, the health club closed, the remaining staff turned up in shorts and T-shirts, all pretence of service was abandoned. 
Sunday morning a fire alarm at 7:30 brought the few remaining hotel guests out into the street in their dressing gowns and jarmies to stand around outside the lobby and watch the fun. The fire engines arrived in less than 5 minutes, and there was much busy to-ing and fro-ing before the all-clear was sounded. Thank goodness it wasn't a real fire. The lack of visible fire wardens, defined muster point or crowd control would have meant victims for sure. Canadian safety procedures? Unionised malice? I'll never know.
Just half an hour ago, two housekeeping staff appeared at my door. A more trusting person might have been overjoyed that they had finally come to make up the room - it had been 2 days out of 4. Unfortunately they seemed only to want to take away all the minibar biscuits, chocolates and other over-priced goodies you are only ever tempted to eat after room service closes for the night. I would have just assumed they were bringing fresher versions, or that the guests' pilfering had reached unacceptable levels, if they had not invited me to help myself from the collection on the way out. Canadian hospitality? Unionised malice? I'll never know.
On my last morning, after a week of bemusedly watching a 5-star hotel implode on itself, I decided it was time to be assertive. I marched up to the front desk:
"I would like a 6:00pm checkout please"
"That will cost you an extra day"
Using my best Jedi hand-wave - "It will not cost me anything more".
The receptionist looked at me blankly for a moment, disappeared into a back room and returned a minute later.
"No problem, 6:00 it is".
Bouyed with confidence in my mind-control technique, when I came back at 6:00, I managed to get another night free for the inconvenience.
At least the weather was warm and sunny, there were lots of cheap and cheerful restaurants to choose from, and I had fun shopping.
Back in London now. The fire engines were piling up outside my favourite market yesterday, and I'm off to see if it burnt down while I was sleeping.

Avebury & Lacock (LW04, WH0373)

London Walks again came through on walk #4 (see the list of London Walks). In an eerie coincidence, they offered a day trip to Avebury and Lacock on the very day I was struggling to figure out a means of getting there by public transport. As usual, the cost was low, the organisation flawless and the guide whimsical.
Lots has been written about Avebury, so I am not going to be boring and repeat it all.The best book I have found on Avebury is "Prehistoric Avebury" by Aubrey Burl. I also read "Hengeworld" by Mike Pitts. Though this had lots of interesting content, the writing style was a bit breathless and incoherent. Here are some interesting links:
This doesn't rate as a new World Heritage site on the tick-off list because I have already been to Stonehenge (WH0373). However, it is huge, and wonderful, and I will go back one day and spend more than a couple of hours.

Lacock is a tiny gem of a village in deepest darkest Wiltshire. When not swamped by film crews, it is sleepy and peaceful. It may be the last living village in England with a Post Office and general store (and no Tesco's).